amazing wire weave pendant - cheap jewelry online
Although I am an expert in some wire packaging, wire weaving is beyond my comfort range.
I only do a few knitters a year and never do too complicated things.
So, when I write this manual, I will go into the new field of jewelry manufacturing. (
Anyway, for me. )
I have wires, lots of great tools, and some nice cables.
My plan is to make a complex pendant using the wire weaving techniques I already know and the ideas I found on the instructions.
I will use the tools and materials already available in my studio, my previous knowledge of the work of the line, as well as guidance tutorials for reference and inspiration to come up with a new design.
The purpose of this tutorial is to give you the tips and tricks to make a very beautiful, creative piece of jewelry.
I will include a large number of photos of my progress and explain what I have changed from the reference tutorial.
This Instructure assumes intermediate to advanced skill levels, but don't worry if you're just starting out.
I will refer to my own tutorial on wire winding basics and check out some basics of weaving. Remix Contest -
Original project: nesucmeflyy also offers Instructure and has useful techniques for making amazing jewelry: three different metals will be used for this pendant.
Copper for infrastructure, fine gauge silver and gold-
Filling Line for weaving.
I also want to weave some crystals, but I have to look at how they look first.
I chose a 25mm round polished quartz as my central stone.
Material: about 25' total 24-
26g round dead soft line (Gold and Silver)4 pcs, 1.
20g semi-circle semi-hard line 5 "(silver)
6 round dead soft lines of 18g and 11 "(copper)
Month 25mm round cabochonTools: baffle of chain nose pliersRound nose pliersWire cuttersFlat nose pliersMandrel (
If you have metal)
Curling pliers (
Optional but good)
Hammer or mallet of nylon or raw leather (
Optional but good)Dremel (
Optional, but very useful if Buffering patina)
Ruler, marker pen, tape (all optional)
Note: Wire: you can use any kind of non-toxic metal wire, although I prefer the online jewelry grade wire.
Wire sculptures and Rio Grande are good sources.
I recommend copper or bronze if you are just starting.
They are cheap and look great with Polish or patina.
Tools: tools are very important.
I use cheap jewelry pliers (~$10)
For a while, but once I'm sure I'll stay with the wire wrap, I have a good wire wrap (~$50).
It makes a big difference, especially how tired my hands will be.
If you do that, keep using your cheap tools.
There's always a pair of pliers to worry about.
Start with collecting tools and wires.
Cut 18g and half circle into pieces according to regulations.
Do not cut the fine woven wire. (
I will cut off the line shaft when I leave.
This also allows me to add crystals or pearls later if I want. )
It's time to make a border for the stone.
I don't measure this.
I'm glad I just figured it out.
But if you want to take out a ruler and a marker, it's time.
Divide 18 specification wires into two groups, 3 in each group.
When I show in steps 3 and 4 of the wire wrap pendant, combine the center of each group (
Wire winding Foundation)tutorial.
Round wires can be a bit difficult, so use tape if you want to keep the wires safer.
Make only one package on each package in the center.
3 wires per bundle are one side of the bezel.
The center of the cab will be aligned with the center package.
One on each side
Follow steps 6 and 7 in my basic tutorial and indicate the changes below the link: you don't need 3 "wires. Use can the 1. 5" half round.
However, I often pack with wires on the spool. 2)
Very important: do the same packing on top and bottom, connect all 6 wires together.
Before the weaving begins, the baffle looks like a hard candy package, which is stretched out at both ends.
Tip: If your cable is round, set the baffle on the circular core shaft.
Hammer A Perfect Circle with rawhide or nylon.
Try on whether the actual cab fits.
Hammer on the core until it is perfect. (
Do not flatten the heavy wire. )
Okay, this should finish the basics-
I feel very comfortable.
Weaving begins now.
I used a combination of 24 grams of silver and gold.
26 grams of wire for weaving.
You really don't see any difference, but the finer wires are easier to weave.
I just had more 24g wires on hand.
Simply, the woven wire just wraps the thin wire around a heavy wire frame in a pattern.
The change is that before you cycle the thin woven line to another foundation line, how many times have you cycled around one foundation line and where you are heading.
The woven thread can be brought over or placed on the base line with any pattern you like.
Each pattern has a different look, and many patterns are used to weave specific shapes, such as the big action to start weaving in this project.
Note: for projects like this, as long as you can still find the wires you need, the order in which you weave will not usually be much different.
I can easily start with a bail or bottom coil.
See the instructions for watchmefly, steps 4 and 6 for basic weaving instructions, but don't cut the wires: 6 shows how to weave the arch.
I changed the pattern as follows: I started knitting and wrapped the end of the wire around the stone about 6 times. (
Leave a line tail out)
Then, I use the woven wire to travel back and forth, making 5 coils between the outer wire and 1 coil on the inner wire. (
Watchmeflyy shows a 2 loop/no loop mode. )
Once I got the hang of it, I started changing the pattern.
I usually work freely like a painter.
I decided to screw the wire inside back to the top and change the color of the wire.
Also, I got the shaft off.
Meaning, I didn't cut off my woven thread until I finished a section.
I did a lot of detail work and shredded flowers with wire wrap and wanted to keep my options open.
When I cut the end of the woven thread, I left my tail long.
At least an inch if I want to add beads and details later.
Work on the online axis.
Although you can start weaving with light, you will get cleaner and more professional results with the right tools.
I put the baseline with pliers (18 g copper)as I worked.
If you don't do this, the heavy wires will lose the smooth curve.
Straighten the knot with flat head pliers and dial back gently.
Use the round head pliers to round the tight curve.
The chain tip clamp is used to pass the woven wire through difficult places.
You need your wire cutter every time you change the wire.
The curling clamp helps to plug in the loose end (tails).
Rawhide or nylon hammers or mallets are ideal for shaping and hardening wires if needed.
As I knit more and more, I started making patterns that fit the basic shape that I was making.
Where the baseline does not show up at the back of the other weaving, I used a simple single loop before seeing the new weaving.
Depending on the tightness of the curve, I used more or less rings around the curve than the original 5 rings.
Sometimes I adjust the numbers as I walk around because a curve is tight in one place and subtle in another.
Sometimes, there is no ring at all when I weave.
Just over, down, down, wait.
I plan to bail with a very simple pattern, with a loop between the two.
Bail should be very much like the bottom of the key in your heart instruction key.
What looks complicated is just more and more weaving.
I have a lot of heavy basic lines to shape and weave, so I can almost weave until I run out.
As I add more shapes, the weaving starts to become layered and looks more and more complicated.
However, these technologies remain the same and fairly simple, so it looks harder than it is now.
Also, the more I knit, the better I am.
When I make coils for my regular wire winding design, I often make long sections at once with a winding fixture.
I may try this in the future.
However, for this weaving project I would like the coils to be very tight and close to the baseline, so I will wrap the baseline by hand.
To do this, finish your Weaving on one side of the coil you want.
Then continue to wrap the coil around the base line on that side.
The wind blows 1/2, holds the baseline with pliers, presses it on the ring with hands, and compresses the ring.
Continue this way until you want to cover as much as you want. Don't cut yet.
Shape or spiral the way you want and use extra wires to fix this element.
Cut and tuck finish if you want. (
For a variety of design elements, winding wires can be shaped or spiral back to themselves.
I did two in this project. )
Note: the winding clamp is very helpful for rounding, smoothing and shrinking the wires on the coil.
When I knit, I fix the design on the baffle whenever the curve is close enough.
I do this in several ways depending on what is the simplest and will not show: 1)
Pass the woven line through the Fender line (
Gently lift if needed)once or twice.
Continue weaving. 2)Wrap the base (18 g)
Wires around the baffle and cutting excess wires.
It's harder, so use the pliers that best fit the space and give you the best grip. 3)
Fix the baseline or woven line to another part that has been fixed.
Tool description: The pressure clamp is very suitable for wrapping the end of the wire on other wires.
I have done enough weaving and I want to see what a few crystals will look like. (
I ended up using 4mm, Swarovski, clear AB bicone. )
I put them in strings of fine wire, and I like that the other end around their package is the free base wire fixed or cut-off line down to about 3/4 "and make a wreath.
Gently flatten the wreath over the crystal or beads so that it is not caught by something.
Making roses: this is probably the most common design element in wire packaging.
You make a small round ring at the end of the wire with your round mouth clamp and make a wreath.
The coil is then wound into a tight spiral with flat-head pliers.
To do this, one hand holds the wire and the other rotates the wire, rotating it for a quarter at a time.
Note: The thinner the wire, the harder it is to make a rose knot that can hold.
The 24g wire works fine and 26g is viable and I won't bother with 28g.
Other notes: Yes, these photos come from different items.
When I get the basic form down and decide the details like crystal color, I need to plan the rest of my designs.
You can see here how I gently bend the baseline into shape so I can plan the next weave.
I did this to check the balance of the design and make sure I assigned the right wires to my plan.
My goal is a feeling of cascading and I think I have reached it.
The two wires at the top will be used for my bail.
I want it to be silver, show it on it and finish it with simple weaving.
At this point, I don't know if I will cut the wires short or weave them with extra wires.
I have a tendency to overdo things, so it may be difficult to know when to stop knitting.
Make up the wires you just planned.
Also, start cutting and folding the ends of the wires that you are sure will not be used for anything else.
Note: When you are done with the wire completely, it should be cut off very short, or wrapped around another wire, or hidden in a safe place.
Put your finger at the end of the wire to make sure it's smooth.
This time on paper.
I used good old pencils and paper to calculate the final details of my design.
Don't forget my plan when I put my project down.
At this point it is very bad to cut the wrong wire or head into the wrong direction.
Based on my sketch, I made the final weave and coil.
At this point, most of the ends are cut.
I will get it done soon!
Make sure you don't have unscheduled bare spots or sharp edges.
It is not too late to solve the problem, but it will be resolved soon.
I have spent about 6 hours packing, weaving and winding so far.
Make sure all wires are now cut off and plugged in.
Press the loose end in place with pliers.
Check if there's any itching.
Polish rough pieces with documents or sandpaper.
Note: I check the problem points with my hands and some fabric, I use the front and back sides of the pendant.
I'm going to polish this pendant and seal it.
When I make full copper or full silver woven pendant, I will add a bronze color which should be very beautiful.
Here are additional views of some finished pendants.
Please let me see what you did. Have fun!