leica is now designing and making its own watches in germany - ruby jewelry set
Originally by Stephen Pulvirenton Hodinkee.
Leica officially entered the watch field for the first time, launching a new watch designed from the groundand-
Dates L1 and GMT-equipped L2.
Camera manufacturers have apparently finished their homework and these watches are not just offthe-
Shelf assembly with well brandrespected logo. Let's dig in.
According to the doctor, the origin of this project can be traced back to about 2012.
Andrea Kaufman, chairman of the Leica camera board, first began exploring the idea of making watches.
The project went through multiple iterations after talking to people from brands like Hanhart to Chronoswiss to.
Lange & Söhne they are starting to realize how ambitious this is and how many people are involved to bring the watch to life.
In terms of design, Leica chose to work with German product designer Achim Heine, who has developed multiple cameras and other optics for Leica in the past 20 years.
He drew inspiration from Leica's camera, not too much.
For example, each watch has a round Ruby on its crown, evoking the famous red dot logo, and the power reserve indicator is similar to the meter on the Leicameter light meter made for M3 rangefinder.
Both L1 and L2 watches are the same medium-to-
Large size with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 14mm, the housing is brushed stainless steel, and the appearance is relatively low-key.
What I want to say is that looking at the watch, they will definitely feel like they are a Leica product, not a cartoon of the camera itself.
But what about these moves?
You know, real tabulation.
To this end, Leica is working with Lehmann pr äzision, a company based in black forest that will
Precision Machinery (
Used in the watch industry)
And its own watch series, named Lehmann Schramberg, although the latter is not known outside Germany.
This allows Leica to maintain manufacturing in Germany and get a movement that you can't find in Germany --based watches.
The last point is the company's highest priority.
The base caliber of the two watches is L1 (
Add GMT function and day and night indicator in L2)
It has a key feature that really sets it apart: a crown that you push to reset the seconds to zero and enter the time --setting mode.
This means you will never pull out the crown or fiddle with multiple locations.
You just have to push it in, set the watch, and push it again to set it to motion-it operates with a column wheel, almost the same as the start/stop mechanism of the time meter, there are two separate locations.
Adjust the date using a separate dedicated pusher, and the GMT model uses the second top rotation to mark the inner baffle of the second time zone.
Although these actions were done by Lehmann, the finishing, packing and final assembly were performed at Ernst Leitz weitzten, Leitz Park campus, wichler, Germany
Right next door to Leica factory).
Consistent with the general atmosphere of the watch, the finish of the movement is a bit industrialized, but it's not careless-you don't see the original edges or unfinished plates, it doesn't mean gorgeous or gorgeous caliber.
Camera manufacturers have no intention of building a complete Watch assembly and believe that cooperation with Lehmann is long termterm one.
There are two things to note here.
First of all, if you think you 've seen Leica watches before, that's because you might have seen them.
The brand has been flirting with authorized partners in space since the 1980 th generation, most recently in 2014, when it partnered with watchmaker Valbray to celebrate the 100 th anniversary of camera manufacturers on a limited edition
However, this is not designed or manufactured by Leica, it is-time endeavor.
Second, the two watches were positioned as the beginning of the Leica new product category, and it appears that the company intends to expand the series.
At the unveiling ceremony of the watch
Kaufmann specifically mentioned the rose gold model that will be launched later this year, and an alarm clock watch called L3 is already at work (
Hope to be launched in 2019)
, And models for women that will be produced in collaboration with Italian jewelry brands.
I have to say that I was a little scared when I first heard that Leica was making a watch.
I was saying this as a Leica shooter and he likes his camera better than almost any other object he has, since I shot Tri-
X on my grandfather's old Minolta
There are two things that have brought me to a pause: 1)
Any time a respected brand takes risks outside of its core competencies, there is a risk of compromise or omission. 2)
Watches are a hard thing to make, and even many companies that have been created for more than a century are still struggling on a regular basis.
While I am happy to report that after spending some time at Leica's headquarters in Wetzlar, I can relax.
These watches, according to their own merits, are completely independent of the name on the dial, handsome and healthymade. Phew.
From a design point of view, this watch is perfect for the language that the camera and Leica have cultivated for decades.
Putting rubies into the Crown, it's cool to cite the iconic red dot in a way that has a certain history in terms of tabulation, and so is the format of the power reserve indicator.
The L1 and L2 calibers are very interesting mechanically. In practice, push-to-
Set crown is very easy to use and is an elegant alternative to a regular establishment.
Working with Lehmann to create a movement that real watch buyers will be interested in is a smart move, and to be honest, they may put any old watches there with little complaint.
This shows that the company is taking this seriously, not just treating these watches as a proliferation product or lifestyle accessory.
Now, like any watch, in an ideal world, I would like to see something different.
In my book, these clothes are 41mm wide and 14mm thick and feel a little big and are real day-to-day wearers.
Especially when you consider the low-key portable features of the M camera, it would be nice to see something below 40mm
12mm, although I understand that, despite my preference for 41x14, it may be proved correct by sports limitations and market research.
GMT configuration, with an internal rotating bezel, took me a minute to understand-I didn't see it at all at first-but it was very low --
The key way to get more information without adding confusion.
Overall, I think this is a new product for Leica.
Well-made, beautifully designed and fun in time, as well as Germany and Leica.
Brand: LeicaModel: L1 and l2 diameter: 41mm thickness: 14mm case material: stainless steel with brushed finish. Dial color: black or red
Embossed black calf leather strap with stainless steel pin: L1 and l2 features: hour, minute, second, date, power reserve indicator, set indicator (
L2 adds a second time zone by rotating the border inside and the day and night indicator)
Power Reserve: manual-60 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewelry: 25 extra details: set the date with a dedicated pusher at 2.
The time setting is activated by pushing the Crown to change mode instead of pulling the crown-the second hand is reset to zero when activated.
Leica is seeking certification from the observatory, but it has not been decided whether to do it in Germany or Switzerland.
Price: The price has not yet been announced, but the price of l1 will start below 10,000 euros: 10 Leica boutiques and some domestic boutiques around the world later this year (German)
Limited edition of jewelry: Not Limited Edition, but total production will be limited to about 400 pieces in the first year.
Please click here for more information.